Page 123 Power Equipment Usage Manual (Rev. 5/10)
make longer boards, up to a length that you have a clamp available to use for gluing. The principles
described here can be adapted to do any sort of cut you need to do. If these instructions are not clear to
you, consult one of the other members on the ‘Approved User’ list for the shaper.
In order to get a good fit and strong joint, it is critical that this procedure is followed exactly. Also, since
these boards need to be perfectly square, etc., you must check each machine you use for squareness,
especially the fence on the jointer and the rip sled of the table saw. They are seldom set properly.
30.3.1. Prepare Your Wood
Prepare your wood by selecting pieces a minimum of 18” long. This is necessary to be able to clamp
them properly on the shaper. If you need shorter boards, you can finger joint both ends of an 18”
board, then cut them to length before gluing.
In order to prepare the wood, first flatten one side on the jointer. Then plane the second side (you really
only need the bottom side to be flattened). Next, joint one edge on the jointer. Mark clearly on the
jointed edge and flattened bottom, with the mark “ref”. For a more detailed explanation, see Section
4.2 How to Prepare a Board, or Getting Started.
Now, rip the second edge on the table saw, then cut it to length keeping it very square.
Using the precision square in the first cabinet above the miter saw, check your piece for square edges
and ends.
30.3.2. Cutter Installation
a. Be sure the shaper is not plugged in.
b. Find the finger joint cutter in the “shaper cutters” drawer in the tool room.
c. Bring over the sled from the tool room. Put on rods on the front of the shaper having the clamp
on the right side. Clamp a workpiece under the clamp.
d. Raise the cutter spindle all the way to the top.
e. On the right side of the shaper, push the orange handle in to lock the cutter spindle. This often
takes some time and several attempts if the cutters are in a low position. Get the dedicated
double ended wrench from the drawer marked “Shaper Stuff”. Put the smaller wrench end on
the top nut. Turn it clockwise to take it off. (it is a LEFT HAND thread). Next put the larger
wrench end on the lower nut. Turn it counter clockwise to take it off (it is a normal, RIGHT HAND
thread).
f. Place an appropriate spacer or collar (if needed) at the base of the spindle for support.
g. Place the cutter on the spindle. Make sure the rotation is correct for your application and being
sure that the bottom of your workpiece is below the lowest cutter finger when the workpiece is
against the fence.
h. Place the spindle washer on top of the spacers/cutter and thread on the locknut.
(30 pages)
(104 pages)
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