Ryobi RS280VS Fiche technique télécharger pdf (Page 61)

Meet the designers

Chad

Veach,

above

left,

a

profes-

sional

engineer,

and

Cameron

Campbell, an architect teaching at

lowa

State University, collaborated

on

this

entry

for Best

Original

Workbench

Design in WOOb

magazine's

Great

American

Workshops

Contest.

By

replacing

legs with interlocking

panels,

their design eliminated the

problem

of

making rigid

connec-

tions

between

the

benchtop and

legs. In the

corner configuration,

each section reinforces the other.

increasing

stability. Chad and

Cameron also included

a continu-

ous overhanging edge for

clamping,

and shelves deep enough to store

large

tools or

materials.

Using only a circular saw, drill,

and

jigsaw,

they built the original

bench

in half

a day.

ffi

Rout

l./s"

round-overs on the front

fu

edses

of

the shelves. Drill

-7r2"

coun-

tersunf

shank

holes

through the cleats.

Locate the holes 1" in from

both ends of

each cleat,

then evenly space two

more

holes between

these.

Apply

two coats of

finish to

the shelves and cleats.

ffi

Using the

shank

holes in the cleats as

Mguides. drill

pilot

holes in the

bases

(A,

B),

and

screw

the cleats in

place.

Position

the

long

cleats so the long

shelves are flush with

the bottom of the

bases' end cutouts. Position

the short

cleats to

accommodate the height of

the

items

you

plan

to store. You may want to

make more

than one shoft shelf for each

end. Lay

the long shelves on the long

cleats. Drill

pilot

and countersunk shank

holes,

and screw the long shelves to

their

cleats. Lay the

short shelves in

place.

lF

Written by

Jan Svec

with

Chuck Hedlund

Project design:

Cameron Campbell

and

Chad

Veach

lllustrations:

Roxanne LeMoine;

Lorna Johnson

Photographs:

Mafi Baldwin

B6

crrtttxrg

ctiasrarm

@

@

z/qx48

x

96"

Padicleboard

(2

needed)

Making inside

suts with a

circular saw

To

get

arrow-straight

edges

when

making inside

cuts,

like

the ones

needed to remove

the cutouts in the

workbench

bases, use

your

circular

saw,

a straightedge, and a technique

called

plunge

cutting.

Here's how.

Measure

the offset from the

edge of

your

circular saw's shoe to the side

of the blade.

Clamp

a

straightedge

to

the

part,

offsetting it that distance

from

the cutout's layout line.

With the

saw's depth

adjustment

loose, raise

the

blade above the

part's

surface.

Starting at one inside corner, hold

the

shoe against the

straightedge,

and swivel the blade

guard

out of the

3/a

x

48

x 96"

Pafticleboard

rrraterials list

A right bases

3/q'

38" 96'

B left bases

3/q'

38" 96"

C ends

3/tu

30"

38"

D

long

top

3/qu

JU YO

E short top

3h'

30" 66'

F lono base shelves

3h'

25', 477/e',

G

short base

shelves

3/q'

25', 417/s',

H long cleats

3/q,

11/z' 231/q'

I short

cleats

3h'

|Vi', 161/2',

J long shelves

3/qu

16V2' 231/4'

K

short shelves

3/qu

16Vz' 161/z'

Material Key:

P-particleboard.

$upplies:

#8x11/q" flathead wood

screws,

#8x11/2"

flathead

wood screws,

#8x2 flathead

wood screws

#20

biscuits.

Router

Bils:1/2"

flush-trim, 7s' round-over.

way.

Switch on

the

saw, and

lower

the

blade through the

part,

as

shown

in the

photo,

above.

Keeping the

saw's shoe against

the

straightedge, continue

your

cut, stop-

ping

at the next corner's intersecting

layout line. Repeat

with the other

three sides of the cutout. Finish the

cuts at the corners with a handsaw.

@

3/q

x 48 x

96"

Padicleboard

(2

needed)

3/a

x 48 x

96"

Pafticleboard

3/q

x 48 x

96"

Particleboard

r

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