Ryobi DBJ50 Instructions d'exploitation Page 22

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Page 13 Power Equipment Usage Manual (Rev. 5/10)
The next two steps can be performed in either order, just make sure to put the flat face down if you
haven’t planed the 2nd face of the board!
5) Fifth, get the second edge parallel to the first edge: Once the board has three good sides (two
faces and one edge), make a rip cut on the fourth side (remaining uneven edge) using the table
saw by having the “flattened/squared” edge against the table saw fence. (See Section 7. Table
Saw for details of how to use this piece of equipment.)
You now have a board that has two parallel edges, two parallel faces and the faces and
edges are square to each other.
6) Sixth, thin the board to proper thickness: To get your wood down to the thickness you need,
there are several alternatives:
Use the planer to shave it down. This is the typical procedure when only a minimal amount
of wood is being removed such as when going from 3/4” to 1/2” (or even 3/8”). Proper
woodworking procedure dictates that you must never use a planer to extensively reduce
the thickness of wood such as going from 1” to 3/8” this is an unnecessary waste of
useable wood.
NOTE: Getting wood down to 1/4” or 3/16” requires a backer board. If you don’t, the
pressure from the planer will: 1) bow the wood and you won’t end up with a piece that is
uniformly the same thickness, or 2) the piece will fracture under the pressure.
If you need to remove a lot of thickness, use the band saw to split the wood and finish
getting it to size in the planer. (See Section 8. on the 15” Band Saw or Section 9. on the 20”
Band Saw for details of how to setup and use this piece of equipment.)
7) Seventh, the final step is to get the ends square with the rest of the squared board: Use the
miter saw or the table saw with its miter gauge to cut off both ends of the board. (See Section
10. Miter Saw and/or Section 7. Table Saw for details of how to setup and use this piece of
equipment.)
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